In a recent New Yorker article I learned about the cold chain, the mechanism for creating and maintaining cold food from creation to customer. In the US, we often freeze or refrigerate food items in the field or the abattoir, then move them through a series of stationary storage areas and refrigerated transport containers to grocery store chillers and, ultimately, consumers’ refrigerators. The article described events in Rwanda, which is valiantly trying to create its own cold chain despite daunting challenges ranging from energy needs to confounding customs.
This week’s issue of the magazine includes two letters regarding that article, both appreciative of the effort yet dubious of the chance of success. One was from an expert in industrial architecture who opined that establishing a cold chain was not sufficient to achieve the ultimate goal, using local farmers as suppliers for modern groceries; he enumerated the ways such attempts had failed in other regions previously. It generally reinforced my own concerns about the industrial food system, the enemy of much that is healthy and enabling, namely fresh food and local food production.
The second letter took the discussion to another level. This was from a serious disrupter who said, Don’t prop up the cold chain, destroy it. An NYC resident, he had tried three times to live without a refrigerator, and succeeded for three months, then seven months, and currently eleven months and counting.
What magic is this! How can one live without a refrigerator in a 21st century city?
Often I approach a blog topic by doing research, which ensures my assertions match those of my preferred internet sites, but today I am winging it. My first thought is, buy what you eat the same day or the night before. I first experienced this in Paris, where workers swing by enormous street markets on the way home to grab something for dinner, and by something I mean real food they will then cook, not prepared takeout. No wonder the French are so healthy! No wonder they eat dinner so late!
Each of our local farmers markets is open only one day each week, and then only for 2 to 3 hours, but let’s pretend that by circulating among them I was able to get produce, cheese, and meat most days. I think I could store produce and cheese for a few days, but surely not meat?
Don’t even suggest I give up meat. It’s my source for shiny hair and manic energy.
Then there is milk, yogurt, and a few other items. At this point it occurs to me that I could have more likely done this in Massachusetts where most houses have significant underground storage–basements–that are naturally cool year-round. Great for wine, and maybe even brine pickles, sauerkraut, or yogurt in sealable glass containers, for short times, but milk?
I could give up milk but I don’t want to. I have 12 ounces of raw milk daily. It’s therapeutic.
Perhaps compromise is possible. I can envision replacing my refrigerator with a much smaller one, perhaps a third of the capacity, and using the rest of that space as sort of an insulated cabinet that would serve as a root cellar. It’s not completely a one-way road, as one could always revert to the regular-size frig if it doesn’t work out.
It would require changing a lot of habits, including possibly our relationship with food. It would mean even more time on food shopping and preparation than I spend now. It would have a dangerous possible side effect of moving us to more processed food (so easy to grab and store) over time. My husband might not be into it. And what about ice cream?
Now that I’ve blogged, I will research the world of breaking the last link of the cold chain. I promise to post an update if I make any progress.
We’re on the opposite end of the spectrum. We have a full-size refrigerator and a separate freezer.
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